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Travel

Ticking all the boxes

There's something for everyone in Nelson, the small town with a large heart

04-Nov-2014
Boulder Bank: an unusual naturally formed land form that separates Tasman Bay and Nelson Haven  •  UniversalImagesGroup

Boulder Bank: an unusual naturally formed land form that separates Tasman Bay and Nelson Haven  •  UniversalImagesGroup

Tucked away at the top of the South Island of New Zealand, Nelson is one of the oldest cities in a young country. It is also one of the most envied, and an easy place to live in. Sheltered by the mountains and soothed by the sea, the city and the surrounding Tasman district regularly top the sunshine stakes. Blessed with stunning scenery, fertile plains and calm waters, the region has built a solid economy based on tourism, fishing, horticulture and forestry.
With a population of almost 50,000, Nelson city is the economic and cultural hub of the Nelson-Tasman region. The largest fishing port in the country, it hugs the hills overlooking the harbour and sweeping bay. Big enough to boast the services and sophistication of a large city, it still exudes a laidback charm and friendliness of a small town. With a reputation for the arts and adventure activities, it has an appeal well beyond being a favourite holiday spot and place to retire.
It is the region's amazingly diverse and accessible natural environment that makes it such a magnet for Kiwi and international visitors. Three national parks - all very different - are just a short drive away through rolling hills and coastal villages populated with small wineries and breweries, artists and specialist food producers.
What to pack: Summer is at its most settled in February and early March, averaging around 23 degrees C during the day and 13 degrees at night. Sea breezes keep it from getting too hot, but the sun can still burn, so hats and sunscreen are a must. With it being mild and dry and the beach being so close, most people dress casually. Shorts, short-sleeve shirts and sandals are standard, even during the evening. With the holiday season past its peak, this is a good time of year to get out and about.

Getting around

The best way to get around Nelson is to hire a car from one of the many rental companies . Their charges are by and large reasonable. Public transport is limited in the city to a few bus routes but there are plenty of tour companies with their own fleets of coaches, vans, boats and yachts ready to help you see the best of the region. Most of the major natural attractions are within a 90-minute drive of Nelson. The central city itself is compact and easy and safe to wander round, with Saxton Oval cricket ground just 15 minutes away by car, bus or taxi.

Where to stay

Being a tourist destination, Nelson has an array of accommodation to suit all tastes and budgets, including hotels, apartments, motels, holiday homes and farm stays, backpackers and bed-and-breakfast establishments.
High-end: Sails Motel and Palazzo Motor Lodge are modern, luxurious and just a short stroll from the central city, and a 15- minute drive from the Oval, while Villa 10 apartments and Te Puna Wai Lodge offer quality boutique accommodation with waterfront views and a similar distance to the grounds.
Mid-range: Grand Mercure Nelson Monaco resort by the sea has a range of apartments, rooms and cottages, less than 15 minutes from the Oval. Trailways on the Maitai River is close to the main shopping area and 15 minutes from the Oval, as is the nearby Cedar Grove Motor Lodge. Arcadia Motel is a stone's throw away from the lovely Tahunanui beach and less than 15 minutes from the Oval.
Budget: Almond House Backpackers and Nelson City Holiday Park & Motels are both quiet and within walking distance of the city centre and 15 minutes from the Oval. Nelson Beach Hostel, which is close to the Tahunanui beach, and the comfortable Boutique Motel Nelson in Stoke are just ten minutes from the grounds.

Where to eat

Nelson has a bustling and eclectic restaurant and café scene, with many eateries situated near the waterfront to take advantage of the sea and mountain views. Others can be found in vineyards and orchards.
High-end: Housed in a heritage building in the main street of the city, Hopgoods has won a swag of awards for its stylish dishes using local produce. Just a few doors away, Ford's Restaurant provides similarly fine service. In a nearby renovated cottage, The Mint Dining Room is an intimate and elegant option, while Miyazu Japanese Restaurant in the Rutherford Hotel is a good place to go to sample seafood. These restaurants are all in the central city and 15 minutes away from the Oval.
Mid-range: There's plenty of choice, but among the best are Harbour Light Bistro on the waterfront, Kraut's Restaurant & Bar in Montgomery Square, which specialises in modern German cuisine, Melrose House Café, situated in a restored mansion in a lovely garden, and Indian Café, which was recently voted the city's most popular eatery. All these restaurants are also about 15 minutes away from the Oval.
Away from the city, the eccentric Jester House Café in the village of Tasman, with its tame eels, maze and shoe-shaped accommodation is a favourite, having been voted best national café in 2013. It is a 30-minute drive away from the Oval. The Cellar Door Restaurant & Café, set among vines at Waimea Estates, 15 minutes away from the grounds, TOAD Hall and Up The Garden Path Café in Motueka, which is 45 minutes away from the Oval, also rate highly, as does Eatery on the Rock in the quirky and chilled out town of Takaka, a two-hour drive away.
Budget: French creperie La Gourmandise, East Street Vegetarian Café & Bar and Pizzeria Stefano's, which has the advantage of being located in the city's multiplex cinema, are good value, popular and 15 minutes away from the cricket. For a Kiwi classic, try piping hot fish and chips straight out of their paper wrapping from one of the many takeaway outlets that dot the city.

Where to party

Pubs and bars provide most of the nightlife. The Free House, a craft beer bar based in an old church, has won multiple awards and features live music in its yurt outside. The Boathouse, a delightful seafront bar and cafe, also has regular gigs, as do the Vic Brew Bar, bohemian café DeVille and Sprig and Fern Tavern. For late-nighters try Little Rock Bar & Nightclub. For more high-brow entertainment, check out what's on at the splendidly restored Theatre Royal, one of the oldest wooden theatres in Australasia.

Don't leave the city without...

Visiting at least one national park. Abel Tasman, overlooking Tasman Bay, is the smallest and most popular. Even if you haven't the time to walk its 53km long coastal track, rated one of New Zealand's "great walks", take one of the many water taxis and do part of it. As well as featuring golden sandy beaches, secluded bays, limestone cliffs looming out of native bush, and crystal-clear water, there is a marine reserve which you can kayak through as you watch fur seals play. By contrast, Nelson Lakes National Park offers a pristine alpine environment to explore, while Kahurangi National Park is for those who want a real wilderness experience.
Going on a vineyard or brewery tour. Nelson has more than 30 boutique and family-owned wineries, producing some of the best wine in New Zealand, in particular aromatic white varieties. Many offer cellar-door tastings and food. Nelson is also a major grower and exporter of specialty hops and has a thriving craft beer industry. Its local micro-breweries have been winning fans and medals with their innovative brews.
Investigating museums and markets. While the World of Wearable Art Museum celebrates something special, there are lots of other outstanding examples of creativity on display in art galleries and studios throughout the Nelson region. Likewise, the Nelson Saturday Market isn't the only one worth visiting. There are farmers markets and producers selling a smorgasbord of homegrown produce in many of the smaller towns. As well, there are countless roadside stalls ready to tempt the taste buds of the traveller.